How to Change Your Oil

Required Tools & Equipment

Supplies to Purchase

Step-by-Step Oil Change Instructions

1. 1

   Confirm Your Oil Spec

   Before purchasing anything, use our oil lookup tool to confirm the exact oil type, viscosity grade, capacity, and filter part number for your specific year, make, model, and trim. Using the wrong oil or filter can cause engine damage. Write down the spec or keep it open on your phone while shopping.

2. 2

   Warm Up the Engine (Optional but Recommended)

   Start the engine and let it run for 2–3 minutes. Warm oil flows out faster and more completely than cold oil. Do not run it to full operating temperature — warm, not hot. After warming, wait at least 15–20 minutes before touching the drain plug or oil.

   Safety: Hot oil causes serious burns. If you're not sure whether the engine is cool enough, wait longer. The drain plug and oil pan will feel uncomfortably warm to a brief touch — not scalding — when safe to proceed.
3. 3

   Lift the Vehicle (If Needed)

   If your vehicle doesn't have enough ground clearance to work under comfortably, use a floor jack to raise it. Always:

   • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before jacking
   • Jack from the manufacturer's specified jack points (shown in your owner's manual)
   • Place jack stands under the frame before getting under the vehicle
   • Never rely on a floor jack alone — it can fail
4. 4

   Remove the Oil Filler Cap

   Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine. This breaks the vacuum seal and allows oil to drain faster and more completely. Set the cap somewhere clean and visible so you don't forget to replace it.

5. 5

   Position the Drain Pan

   Slide under the vehicle with your drain pan and locate the oil drain plug — it's typically at the lowest point of the oil pan, which sits at the bottom of the engine. Position the drain pan slightly forward of the drain plug, since oil will shoot out at an angle when first removed before settling into a straight fall.

6. 6

   Drain the Old Oil

   Using your socket wrench, turn the drain plug counterclockwise to loosen it. Once loose, switch to turning by hand — keep upward pressure on the plug as you unscrew it so it doesn't fall into the drain pan. When it's almost out, quickly move your hand aside and let the oil flow into the pan.

   Allow the oil to drain completely — this typically takes 5 to 10 minutes. While draining, inspect the drain plug and gasket for damage.

7. 7

   Remove the Old Oil Filter

   Locate the oil filter — it's typically on the side of the engine block, though the exact position varies significantly by vehicle. Use your oil filter wrench to loosen it counterclockwise. Once loose, finish removing by hand. Have your drain pan ready — the filter contains oil that will spill out.

   Tip: Before removing the filter completely, use a rag to create a barrier around it to catch drips. Some technicians use a zip-lock bag slipped over the filter before removal to contain spills.
8. 8

   Install the New Oil Filter

   Before installing the new filter, apply a thin film of fresh oil to the rubber gasket on the top of the new filter using your finger. This lubricates the gasket, ensures a good seal, and makes the filter easier to remove at the next change.

   Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket makes contact with the engine, then tighten an additional three-quarter turn. Do not use a wrench to tighten — hand tight plus three-quarters is the correct installation for virtually all spin-on filters.

9. 9

   Reinstall the Drain Plug

   Wipe the drain plug and the area around the drain hole clean with a shop rag. If your vehicle uses a crush washer (check your owner's manual), install a new one now. Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with your socket wrench to the manufacturer's torque specification — typically 25–35 ft-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten firmly but not excessively — you should feel clear resistance but not be straining.

10. 10

    Add the New Oil

    Lower the vehicle back to the ground if you jacked it up. Insert your funnel into the oil filler opening on top of the engine. Pour in approximately 80% of the total oil capacity specified for your vehicle, then check the dipstick. Add oil in small increments until the level reads between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick. It's easier to add more oil than to remove excess.

    Important: Overfilling oil is as harmful as underfilling. Too much oil causes foaming, which dramatically reduces lubrication effectiveness and can damage seals. Always check the dipstick rather than pouring in the full specified amount at once.
11. 11

    Replace the Oil Filler Cap and Check for Leaks

    Reinstall the oil filler cap firmly. Start the engine and let it idle for 60 seconds. The oil pressure warning light should go off within a few seconds of startup — if it stays on, shut the engine off immediately and investigate.

    While the engine idles, get back under the vehicle and check both the drain plug and the oil filter for leaks. A small amount of seepage that wipes away is normal initially — active dripping is not. If you see active leaking, shut the engine off and retighten the leaking component.

12. 12

    Check the Oil Level Again

    After running the engine for 60 seconds, shut it off and wait 5 minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert fully, and check the level again. Add oil if needed to bring it to the MAX mark.

13. 13

    Reset the Oil Life Monitor

    Most modern vehicles have an oil life monitoring system that needs to be reset after an oil change. The reset procedure varies by manufacturer — check your owner's manual for the specific steps. Common methods include holding the trip reset button while cycling the ignition, or navigating through the instrument cluster menu.

14. 14

    Dispose of Used Oil Properly

    Pour the used oil from your drain pan into a sealed container — the empty oil jugs work well. Take it to any major auto parts store (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, Walmart Auto Center) for free recycling. Never pour used motor oil down the drain, on the ground, or in the trash — it's illegal in most states and one quart of oil can contaminate 250,000 gallons of water.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

When to Skip DIY and Go to a Professional

DIY oil changes are straightforward for most vehicles, but there are situations where professional service makes more sense:

• Cartridge-style oil filters — some vehicles (particularly European makes like BMW, Mercedes, and Audi) use a cartridge filter housed in a canister rather than a spin-on filter. These require a specific socket to remove the housing and are more complex to service.
• Vehicles with difficult access — some vehicles have drain plugs or filters in very difficult positions that require specialized tools or significant disassembly to reach.
• Vehicles under active warranty — while DIY oil changes don't void warranties by law (Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act), keeping dealer service records can simplify any future warranty claims.
• If you discover metal particles or unusual oil condition — glittery metallic particles in the old oil indicate internal engine wear that warrants professional diagnosis before proceeding.

Watch: Complete Oil Change Tutorial

This video walks through the full oil change process step by step — a great companion to the written guide above.